| My first waves | |
| Author | Entry Date |
|---|---|
| Waveripper | 1/24/2001 |
| Last year on July 2, 2000 I moved down here to Florida. Not long afterwards, Paw Paw (the creator of rippinh20)and my Uncle Gary took me to the ocean and started teaching me how to surf. It didn't take long to learn how to surf once I got used to it. When I surf, I just get this big bomb of happiness and joy about just having fun. It's sometimes hard to describe how it feels to get on that board and catch the perfect wave. After I started to become a more experienced surfer we went on a surf trip to the east coast. On the way there it was kindof boring because it was like a seven hour drive. The car broke down, another car broke down and I was HOT! We ended up getting there late at night. We didn't set up camp till the next morning. I slept in the big van. The next day was even worse than the night before because there were a million mosquitos. And we used four cans of OFF and they still bit us. The first beach we went to was Cocoa Beach. The waves were big and I couldn't ride because it was too windy for the long board and that was the only board I knew how to ride. Instead of riding the surfboard, I rode the spongeboard (boogie board). On three of the waves I had the top ALL THE WAY TO THE SHORE!!! Undertow is really dangerous because it can take you so far out that you can barely swim in. I would know because it happened to me. Me and Paw Paw could hardly swim in with all our might. One of the best things is that Uncle Gary and Paw Paw bought me a chaff guard so that I wouldn't get sunburnt on my back, stomach or shoulders. I got on the surfboard like ten times. Half of those I actually stood up for the first time. It made me feel like I was flying. That was one of the best things about the trip. I will always remember my first time standing up. But on the last one my little cousin, Davie, ran into me and I had shells up my butt. It takes a lot of guts to learn how to surf. It's not always easy. You have to watch out for sharks, stingrays, jellyfish and sharp rocks. But surfing is worth watching out for this stuff because once you get up you can't wait to go again and again. The best thing of the whole trip was I got to spend time with my family!!!!!!!!! You should try surfing. Believe me, you'll bring home a lot of shells!!!!! (haha) The End | |
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